Add models and put construction details in readme.
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models/body.stl
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models/body.stl
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/media/Data/3D Models/My Designs/Bike stuff/Battery Holder/body.stl
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models/fastener.stl
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models/fastener.stl
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/media/Data/3D Models/My Designs/Bike stuff/Battery Holder/fastener.stl
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models/lid.stl
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models/lid.stl
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/media/Data/3D Models/My Designs/Bike stuff/Battery Holder/lid.stl
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readme.md
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readme.md
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This is Arduino code to drive 2 led rings for the smallest model from this [thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:344412).
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The front half is white and the rear half is read and the LEDs are "randomly" illuminated. The right side is a mirror of the left.
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The front half is white and the rear half is read and the LEDs are "randomly" illuminated. The right side is a mirror of the left.
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## BOM
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* [Cheapduino from DFRobot](https://www.dfrobot.com/product-899.html)
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* [12 LED WS2182B ring](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Bit-Channel-WS2812b-RGB-LED-Ring-Module-5050-PLCC-UK-First-Class/273694051407) x2
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* [1000mAh LiPo battery, measuring 34x50x5mm (WxLxH)](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-3-7V-1000mAh-JST-PH2-0-lipo-Rechargeable-Battery-For-MP3-mobile-phone-503450/112677366789)
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* [5c lithium charge/discharge module](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2A-5V-4in1-Li-ion-Battery-Charger-Discharge-Module-3-7V-4-2V-Charge-Boost-Board/133124533372)
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* [Mini SPST rocker switch](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-Mini-Black-On-Off-Rocker-Switch-Rectangle-SPST-12V-All-Quantities/251390016446)
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* [Micro USB breakout board](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Female-Micro-USB-to-DIP-Adapter-Converter-2-54mm-PCB-Breakout-Board-DIY/331967820483)
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* 3 core wire
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* Single core wire
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* JST-SM 3 pin connectors x2
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* Heat shrink
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* M2x4mm screws x12
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* M3x20mm screw (this may change for you)
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* Cable ties x4
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* 3D printer
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## Construction
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1. Print out the 3D models found in the models folder and the Thingiverse link above.
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2. Upload the code to the Cheapduino.
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3. Cut some of the 3 core wire to the appropriate length to go from the horns to where you want to mount the battery box.
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4. Solder the 3 core wire to the LED rings and crimp on the female JST connectors.
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5. Cut any existing connector off the battery and solder the wires to the matching pads on the charge controller.
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6. Use some single core wire to connect the micro USB breakout to the charge controller, and solder in to place.
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7. Cut enough single core wire to go from the switch to the inside of the battery box, with enough slack for you to work with.
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8. Solder some of the single core wire to each terminal of the switch.
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9. Push switch in to place.
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10. Solder one of the switch wires to the VOUT on the charge controller.
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12. Cut enough 3 core wire to thread through the holes in the battery box to reach the Cheapduino with enough on the outside to attach a JST connector.
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13. Cut another of the same length.
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14. Crimp on a male JST connector on each length of wire.
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15. Solder a positive and negative wire on to the Cheapduino.
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16. Insert the short lengths of 3 core wire to the battery box and solder the data pins to the Cheapduino (check source code for pin layout).
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17. Solder all the remaining unsoldered positive wires to eachother and apply heatshrink. Do the same for the negative.
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18. Press in and screw down the microusb connector in to the battery box using 2 of the M2 screws.
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19. Connect everything and make sure it all works.
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20. Disconnect everything.
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21. Press it all in to the battery box and use the remaining 8 M2 screws to attach the lid.
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22. Using the M3 screw, fasten the box to the helmet using the fastener from the inside.
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23. Press the LED rings in to the horns and cable tie the horns to the helmet.
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24. Thread the wires through the helmet, using cable ties to hold in to place.
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25. Connect everything back up and enjoy.
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